Kye Monastery, Spiti

In 2006, i'd finally lost it! Footloose & in search of myself, i took shelter in the Himalayas. Driving past the hustle bustle of India's oldest & most abused hill station, Shimla, i took the old Hindustan-Tibet highway, well past sleepy Narkanda & activity hub Rampur to see myself land in Kafnu, a village of 200 souls! I managed to hire some local boys as guide, cook & ponyman, some basic provisions, to do a solitary trek up Bhabha Pass (14500ft)! Crossing over from the Pin Valley into village Mudh in the pristine Spiti Valley. And then via Kaza to the great monastery at Kye, i laboured up its winding pathway. "This is it!", said my inner voice to me. And i was hooked.
Not knowing how i should get started, i politely requested the head monk, Lobsang Lama, if i could get to stay at one of the rooms at the imposing gompa to read, meditate more peacefully. It helped that i had been initiated into it a few months ago. "Koi baat nahi" (No problem), said he in all humility. I was shown my rudimentary room, the common loo, timings of prayers & meals explained in brief and suddenly, i was alone in this world! "Am i dead? Have i reached heaven?" i had wondered.
Intending to be a 'couple of days' my stay extended to beyond 2 weeks! What's more, with the dedication with which the monks sensed me going about my inner exploration, they soon not only offered me the inner most chamber (Go Khang) of the monastery for more seclusion, they also often spoke of the teachings of the Sakyamuni Buddha & Guru Rinpoche in broken Hindi, and had no hesitation in letting me join their most sacred private prayer sessions! Surely, food was frugal with butter tea & millet flour on offer at most times. Dal & rice were delicacies to be savoured over lunch & dinner. It dint matter really. I was here, hungry for some experience beyond the obvious, wasn't i?
The 'Pasada' Style fort monastery lords over the Kye village, with the Spiti river hustling by, creating the loudest sound, no more than a whisper, amidst silence that could be impacting if one is not prepared. Home to many a finely woven 'thangka' and texts, this place seems to be the closest one can get to Cessation of Suffering, or Nirvana!
My journey included undertaking numerous short treks into the enchanting countryside(including one to the base of Mt. Leo Purgyal, 21500ft) and prolonged prayer & meditation sessions at Kibber, Dhankar & Tabo monasteries. Even honoured to meet Khentul Rinpoche at Dhankar for a two hour one-on-one discussing nuances of Tibetan Buddhism & getting some mind slush cleared! Such serenity, humility & patience Rinpoche exuded. And i have begun to look at living & dying the Tibetan Buddhist way.
However, whether you want to go down this path or not, is inconsequential. What is, are the scenic valleys of Pin, Spiti, Sangla, Linghti, Kinnaur. Incredible drives, compelling panoramas & intensely energizing walks in the hills. A must do 'drive around' safari..if you have 15 days & a decent budget! (pic of the monastery)