Rann of Kutch!

Top: Bluebull

(Neelgai)

Rt: Wild Ass (Gudkhur)

Of the most humbling regions of India, where the ego is easily annihilated, fear of lonliness can creep forth to engulf the self, pride is ground into the cracks of caked mud and the only thing on mind is survival...can easily be the Rann of Kutch!

I was fortunate, a few years ago, to have had the opportunity to lead a modest sized, yet fiercely like-minded group, with keen interest in textiles, cultural exploration & photography to this marvellous region. Making our base in New Bhuj, as the capital centre is called after restoration of the region following the devastating earthquake, what unravelled over the next 10 days was sheer delight! Hira Bhasar, a weaver master, was to be our friend & guide over the days.
Until early 19th century, the mighty Indus river ran thru the region of Kutch untill a massive earthquake in 1819 altered its course leaving the landscape arid & parched. Then again in 2001 January, was when large number of villages just disappeared, hundreds and thousands killed, in another quake, with Bhuj at the epicentre. There are now distinct timezones for the locals. Before & After the quake of 2001.

Hostile landscape, fresh water an everday scarcity, scorching sun & freezing nights, wild dust storms, wildlife, non-existent shade, ..all this & more is on tap. Each day. Every day.
However, it is the people, their simplicity, their eversmiling faces in living conditions unfathomable to an urban dweller, formidable hospitality, pure heatrs, their phenomenal sense of artistry in almost every art & craft, their unity in diverse habits, customs & religions, sense of humour, despite prolonged government neglect, is what leaves you baffled! What was experienced over the days we spent in the villages of Bhirandiyara, Luniya, Tundavan, Uddo, Jaralwari, Ajrakhpur, Bhujodi, Dhamadka,....amongst many more was an experience that will remain with all of us through this life time.
What excited us equally were the visits to Kaladongar temple, meeting with our soldiers at the last army bunker beyond India bridge (virtually peeping into neighbouring Pakistan) or the night of 31st December we spent in the Little Rann, in the middle of 5000sqkm of nothingness! Our maverick driver, Javed, the intermittent crackling of his walkie-talkie, that informed our resort of our well-being, and a billion stars for company is was all we had! Suddenly, Javed disappeared, only to reassuringly return with firewood & some fuel to light up what seemed the only light for lightyears of pitch darkness! The visit to the flat, unending salt pans, the salt people, the playful jeep chases with Neelgai (Bluebull), Jackal & Wild Asses at 70kmph is an thrill we all wont be in a hurry to forget.

Easily accessible from Mumbai or Ahmedabad, in western India, a stay of 8-10 days for those keen on tribal culture, handicrafts, stitchwork, tribal art, salt making, wetland avain life and the thrill of desert stay, this is THE place!

Bird life? Plethora of migratory birds such as Storks, Pelicans, Cranes, Flamingoes..smaller resident birds such as sandpipers, quail, lapwing, falcon and other add to the omnipresent beauty of this region.
(pl. see the foto-feature of this tour carried in the national edition of Indian Express. Bottom left pic shows natural fabric expert, Ms. Neeta, in discussion with aari work artisans at Jaralwari)