Walking with the Buddha - Bodh Gaya (Speaking Tree Paper, 11/04/2010)

... some snapshots to share from this spiritual sojourn!

Plateau of Flowers, Kaas!

Not too far away from where i live in Pune, is a marvel of nature that was brought to light only recently to us Puneites. A plateau of laterite rock, 40sqkm in expanse, that bursts into wild flowers each year from August to Sepetember! Such is the spectacle that the place now earns the richly deserving name tag of " Plateau of Flowers" after its famed cousin, Valley of Flowers in northern India.
A 2hr road journey towards the south of Pune (125kms), is the modest town of Satara, once the hotbed of mountain warfare during the rule of Maharaj Shivaji. It has remained a political bastion since but little benefit has been brought to its residents. The district headquarter also boasts of having the twin hillstations of Mahableshwar & Panchgani under its tottering control.
The unassuming plateau, 22kms from this town up a winding hillroad, is a treat to the eye for its visuals as well as the bio-diversity it supports. Flowers bring in insects & bees that inturn bring in birds and smaller land scurrying animals like geckos, filed mice, serpents which again attract simians. Reports of leopard sightings have also made rounds in the hills nearby.
The bloom lasts merely for 8weeks each monsoon. Hues of brilliant yellow (smithia & sontikli), purple (karvi), milk white (pindi), inkblue (abhai), fresh pink (balsam) adorn the plateau in a magnificence befitting the nuptial bed of Gods! Prevalent colours are decided by the dominant pollen during your visit. Now, how personal is that?
Downside? Irresponsible Man, ofc(o)urse! Strewn plastic bottles, glass, sachets are already jostling for space!

Allow me to share some snaphots with you from our recent visit...

Fort JadhavGADH...Ladh, Jhagad, Aage Badh!

Stay at 'Fort JadhavGADH', a 300year old Fort Hotel, built in 1710 by Pillaji Jadhavrao, is to be experienced to be believed! Situated on the shoulders of beautiful rolling hills located 22kms from Pune at a height of over 2500ft above MSL, Fort Jadhavgad lies in the heart of Jadhavwadi.
The Fort, spread over 25 well-restored acres, is a fine example of Maratha craftsmanship. 'It was built by a man who himself was as strong in mind & body as the structure he envisioned to create' claims the website. True. Maratha General of Chhatrapati Shahuji Maharaj, Pillaji proved his mettle each time someone dared the supremacy of the Maratha ruler. The catch line fits like a glove! (Fight, Tussle, Move Forward!)
What is impressive is the manner in which the architects have blended the ancient with the temporal. Many of the areas are new, no doubt, but donot take away anything from the old world charm of the fort. For eg: The ramparts of the fort have been left virtually untouched despite housing over 40 rooms! The plumbing, electrification, electronics & drainage have all been so well handled, that they do not come across as stark modern intrusions.
The Swimming Pool, aptly called Kund (Pond), and the Spa, are of particular interest located inside the erstwhile courtyard. Located at a higher most level of the fort, means no inhibitions for the swimmers! Also, the planners have retained 2 old neem trees in the centre of the pool. So also the other trees on the property..the old banyan tree on the hill or the couple of tamarind trees near the family temple on which one can enjoy a nostalgic swing.
The food is great, traditional service offered by locals is professional & charming and the overall experience for us was "We dont want to leave!"
The museum "Aai" (Mother) is a visual treat of personal collections, that only a formidable hotelier such as Vitthal Kamat can offer!
Moving Clouds offeres excellent deals at the property including day trips with a lavish buffet luncheon, although recommended is a 2-night experience to soak it all in. Pick-up & Drop services from Pune are offered too.

Chills, Thrills & Hills - Trekking the Nilgiris!

Trekking life seems incomplete without the thrill of trekking thru the Nilgiris! Called Blue Mountians, a name derived from the blue kuriji flower that blooms across the valley every 12 years, a sight to belold! Nilgiris, the tallest mountian range in South India, peaking at Dodda Betta (Big Mountain, 8606ft) is home to vast flora & fauna. Not to mention the elusive big cat, which our group was very fortunate to sight. Ofcourse, it had spotted us well before! Views all thru the days trek are arresting!

Sample this view from ours: The Kalhatti Ghats estate perched at a lofty height from where one gets nerve tingling vistas of the Bandipur & Mudhumalai WLS below. The tree canopy resembling the knotted wool of a million sheep grazing at a distance! The Sigur Plateau unwraps itself like a massive open leaf. The picture is completed with the Moyar River that snakes its way through deep ravines. The setting sun in slow motion, as though suspended by an invisible thread, at the backdrop of all this, is a stage befitting the Gods. And we, merely mortals. (Above: some trek snapshots.. from me to you!)

The moderate grade trek begins at Parsons Valley, winds across Porthmund dam, Mukurthi lake, Anumapuram, Pykara (skirting Ooty), thru Mudhumalai WLS and culminates 5 days later into the Forest Rest House of the sanctuary. (Incidentally, this was called Veerappan Country, after the infamous forest brigand, who ruthlessly decimated sandalwood trees & Elephants in these majestic forests for 20 years before he was dramatically captured & shot dead!)

Usually undertaken as a 'do-it-yourself ' trek, without the luxury of porters, the affordable trek offers modest accomodation and simple food after a days hike. Moving Clouds arranges the trek if groups exceed 15.

Tip: Elephants have long memory. Yet haven't forgotton Veerappan. They treat all humans alike. Stay clear. If chased, run downhill. Elephants charge uphill at 20kmph! Wanna race?

ECO-TOURISM...is Responsible Tourism.

(At Rt. JLR, Kabini: Hunting
Palace of the erstwhile Maharaja of Mysore)

(Top: Luxury tents @ JLR, Lt: Cottage Interiors)

Tavel can be much more than simply visiting places, taking pictures and buying souvenirs. When executed heedfully, and with the minimum impact, travel can inspire cultural awareness, tolerance, and commitment to environmental responsibility. As a vital part of the tourism industry, travellers have the power to help transform the way people travel, and to give back to communities and destinations.
Responsible Tourism? What’s that?
PROTECT – Local Culture.
PROVIDE – An opportunity to yourself to explore these unique ways of life.
POOL-IN – Resources to take the cause forward.
Who travels responsibly?
Anyone can be a responsible traveller! You can get back to nature, or bathe in luxury... hike into the forest, or explore the city... stay close to home, or travel to the exotic location of your dreams. Responsible travel provides many options and is often very affordable.
Responsible Travel – Myths & Truths:
Myth: I have to sacrifice quality and luxury of accommodations.

Truth: Many lodges, hotels, and resorts have high standards of quality and conveniences. They bring nature and local flavour within your reach, while still assuring your level of comfort.
Myth: It's expensive!

Truth: Responsible tours and accommodations come in a range of prices, depending on the level of comfort and convenience you desire.
Myth: It's too difficult to be a responsible traveller.

Truth: An aware Travel Consultant can make it easy to plan and book responsible travel! When you arrive at your destination, there are simple steps you can take to make your trip environmentally and socially responsible (see "What You Can Do While Travelling" above).
Myth: It means travelling to jungles & far off places.

Truth: Responsible travel often brings to mind images of exotic tropical locations, but the reality is that destinations, accommodations, and tour packages exist all across India.
Myth: It's for backpackers.

Truth: People of all interests, ages, incomes, and backgrounds can travel responsibly, and there are plenty of family-friendly options.

(Above: Coracle is a great way to see water & wild life! Oarsman sits on the small stool while 4-5 guests sit around the bigger one, back-to-back...crocs find rubber hard to chew on...don your life-jackets please!)
Recommended Do's and Don'ts While Travelling:
By exploring alternative travel choices, you can have a unique trip and avoid leaving undesireable influences on local cultures, economies, and environment.
1. At the hotel: Ask about environmental preservation & conservation policies and practices. Talk with staff about working conditions. Does the hotel support local community initiatives?
2. Language: Learn a few words of the local language and use them.
3. Dress: Read up on local conventions and dress appropriately. In many places, modest dress is important.
4. Behaviour: Be respectful of local citizens’ privacy. Ask permission before entering sacred places, homes / private properties.
5. Photos: Be sensitive to when and where you take photos/video of people. Always ask first.
6. Environment: Respect the natural environment. Never touch or harass animals. Always follow designated trails. Support conservation by paying entrance fees to parks and protected sites.
7. Animal products: Never ever buy crafts or products made from protected or endangered animals. Never ask for wild-life meat.
8. Pay the fair price: Don’t engage in overly aggressive bargaining for souvenirs. Don’t short-change on tips for services.
9. Buy local: Choose locally-owned lodges & hotels. Use local transport, car rental agencies. Eat in local restaurants, shop in local markets, and attend local festivals/events.
10. Hire local guides: Enrich your experience and support the local economy. Ask guides if they are licensed and live locally.
Tips for Eco-friendly Travelling:
1. Fly Wisely: Minimize air travel. Carbon footprint is enormously high!
2. Travel Light: Pack only what you need not what is luxury.
3. Book Responsibly: When choosing your tour operator, select ones that has good awareness practices and ethical conduct.
4. Before You Leave: Turn off lights and unplug household appliances that can be left unplugged while you are away.
5. While You Are There: Turn off all the lights and air conditioner/heater when you leave your room, and unplug unnecessary appliances.
6. Greener Way To Get Around: Utilize public transportation (bus, train, city car, etc.) and alternative modes of transportation (walking, bicycle, non-motorized vehicles, horse/camel/bullock carts) as much as possible. It's a more sustainable way to get around, and also a healthier and more enjoyable way to get to know the place you are visiting.
7. Eat Local: Reduce your 'food miles' by choosing local. Visit a local farmer's market, shop at a locally owned grocery store and choose locally owned restaurants that buy local. Locally produced foods are a tastier and more sustainable option.
8. Save Water: Use the minimum amount of water needed for a shower/bath, don't let water run while shaving, brushing or washing, and check if the hotel has a linen reuse program - if so, reuse your towels and bed sheets by placing the card to indicate you don't wish to have them washed every day, if not, request hospitality staff not to change them every day.
9. Charge Your Trip Sustainably: Whenever possible, utilize options that do not require batteries. Buy rechargeable batteries for your essential travel items such as cameras, razors, and flash lights.
10. Offset the Unavoidable Footprint: Contribute to a credible carbon offsetting program to support conservation, renewable energy, and other energy saving projects.

Travel Happy!…Spreading happy energies during travel is good for the locals, good for the environment & great for YOU! ..And its ABSOLUTELY FREE! :-)

Tip: Jungle Lodges & Resorts run some fantastic properties in Karnataka, S.India! On offer are options of wildlife, adventure & water sports, hiking, angling, animal interaction, ayurveda breaks... More on www.junglelodges.com . Do call Moving Clouds before you finalize….we are Business Partners to JLR and can offer your better tariffs. Ofcourse, we have some superb 'eyeball-to-eyeball with nature' options too...pan India & Bhutan.

(Lft: JLR, Devbagh Island Beach Resort)

Classic Drive Around Tour from Pune! (N.Karnataka)

The onset of winter triggers off the wanderlust in most of us, right? Crisp weather, healthy season, festivities in the air, looming year end celebrations...and things. A good tour to undertake for those with cultural inclinations is the classic circuit of: Bijapur-Hampi-Sandur-Pattadakal-Aihole! The good part about this drive around is that it can be done at an easy pace, doesn't take you thru too many crowded roads and is surprisingly educative & interesting even to your bored looking tween & teen kids!

The Gol Gumbaz (Round Dome) at Bijapur is a piece of architecture to be marvelled at! The precision, acoustics, robust construction has stood the test of time, with its beauty unparalleled, amidst modern India's civil engineering creations.

The vision of Krishnadevaraya of the Vijayanagar Empire of setting up a township so magnificent & secure, over 500yrs ago, speaks of his vision, befitting that only of a king. The current state that Hampi, a World Heritage Site, is reduced to, is the result of 16000 Moghul soldiers armed with crowbars, fire & hammers destroying the town relentlessly for 6 months in mid-1500's!

Nearby, Sandur is home to Lambadi tribe, re-settled here, having moved here decades ago from Gujarat. They turnout the finest pieces of hand embroidered work.

Not far away, Pattadakal & Aihole are superb pieces of Dravidian temple architecture! Seen to be believed.

Modest to Comfortable places to stay are available in each of these places. In India, book early! Recommended: 7days. Distance to drive (round from Pune): 1100kms approx.

Backpacking in search of the Lord! Temples of Tamil Nadu:

If i were to make mention of a footloose & bizarre backpacking experience i have had, it would easily be the temple circuit of southern India's gifted state of Tamil Nadu!
Not long ago, my photographer friend, Vinay had freshly acquired a 500mm telefoto lens for his camera. "What better, than put it to test" i had suggested. "Sure", he said, "only if you lug the 3kg monster all thru"! In hindsight, i'm glad i dint refuse! :-)
Setting off on a 'down-to-the-bone' budget (a mutually accepted pre-condition), we headed for Chennai by train. Thereafter, it was any & all available modes of transport & food that carried us thru! Over the next 10days we were to whirlwind ourselves thru Mahabalipuram-Pondy-Swamimalai-Kumbakonam-Chidambaram-Pichavaram-Tanjore(Thanjavur)-Rameshwaram-Madurai.

The Chola Dynasty (9th-14th century A.D.)truly had a great eye for detailing and built some of India's finest, largest & most intricate temples dedicated to Lords, Shiva & Vishnu.

Sample this! A 25ton Nandi Bull at Tanjore with a 4 mtr high Shiva lingam, Diamond studded palm of Lord Vishnu at Kumbakonam, Massive stone corridors, intricately carved at Rameshwaram, Lord Shiva's 'tandav nritya' (cosmic dance in anger) finely depicted in stone carving at Chidambaram...

A deligtful circuit to undertake, at leisure. Highly recommended for those keen on architecture, heritage stays, lip-smacking South Indian vegetarian fare & some serious sin washing!

And yes, comfortable & some high end options are available to put up!
(Pics top to bottom: Snap shots of temples at Rameshwaram, Chidambaram, Kumbakonam, Tanjavur & Mahabalipuram, respectively)
Lesson: Gods are safe in the hands of priests. Just that the former are more easily appeased!

Someplace Special - Wildernest, Goa

...hope you have gone thru the article above written by Dr. & Dr. Mrs Saxena. Many others have experienced & expressed this, just that they have not had the opportunity to write! Every bit of it and more is true about this magnificent property in the Western Ghats (India). The tastefully done luxury cottages (using just wood, stone & glass), the setting of the resort over 500acres of forest slope, the overwhelming views, those nature walks, folkdance evenings, peep into local village life, infinite edge swimming pool, the mind-blowing cuisine spread, and charming hospitality...all of it comes magnificently together to make this place a total sellout!
Getting here: 7hrs drive from Pune, 3hrs from Panaji, 4 hrs from Margao. Complimentary to & fro transfers by the resort from Belgaum & Dabolim(Goa) make it easy arrival....but a reluctant departure!
Do checkout http://www.wildernest-goa.com/ or http://www.swapnagandha.com/ for more.
And hey, before you book online, let Moving Clouds know! Being local anchors for them, we'll offer better rates than those published on their website!
Cheers to Susegad*... :-)
*Susegad : ('So-say-gaad'): Highly skilled & meticulously perfected art over decades, credited to Goans, which defines doing nothing!

Bhutan - Nirvana Country!

Deriving its name from many versions such as ‘Bhot-ant’ meaning end of Tibet (Bhotia meaning the people from Tibet in Sanskrit), or ‘Bhut-uttan’ meaning high land or whatever else, the present name of Bhutan has stuck. Druk Yul or ‘land of thunder dragon’ to its mostly Buddhist natives, this pristine landlocked state, that lives in the past & future at the same time, is often compared to Switzerland. Large meadows, tastefully done country homes resembling chalets, snow peaks springing up on the traveller and forested hills all of it makes this place, believed to be visited by Guru Rinpoche (Padmasambhava, or the Buddha of our times) a delight to travel in.

Reasons for travel to Bhutan can be many! Be it Hiking ( from the shortest & easiest to the longest & most difficult in the world), Camping, Drive around, Religion & Culture exploration, Textiles, Buddhist studies, finding yourself or simply doing nothing! All of this could be credible possibilities.
Hotels are good & many in capital Thimphu & Paro (airport), but get fewer as you travel interior. No matter where, delicious food is served with a smile. Responsible tourism means that each group is escorted by English speaking, humble & knowledgeable local guide cum driver, every group coming in must be registered thru a local travel agency, visa for Indians is given on arrival, very few flights, with smaller aircrafts operate from Delhi & Kolkata only thru their own airway Druk Air in Paro. As last statistics tell us, the number of tourists visiting Bhutan were less than 10000!
So how is it sustainable? Travelling to Bhutan comes at a price. Tariff: USD 250 for the foreign traveller & little more than half that for Indians per person. Includes lodge, full board, surface transfers in private vehicle, site seeing as per itinerary, guide & driver.
My take? Go for it! …If there were a Shangri-La, this is easily it!
Flying over the Himalayas, i’m told the flight from Kathmandu to Paro is the most spectacular in the world! (check what Zubin has to say....in "Our Guests Speak" section!)

Textile Tours in India - Sheer Skillsmanship!

India’s textile diversity is unmatched! Each of her 28 states has a wealth of abundance working primarily with natural fibres of cotton, silk, jute and blends thereof. Over the last 15 years, my wife & i have criss-crossed the heartlands of 10 of these states to explore how we could build a bridge between local artistry & urban needs. This seeking journey has over the years created a vibrant business that my wife, Neeta, manages.

Banjaras, is a store that retails natural fabrics in prints, weaves & handstitched yardage, and creates made-to-measurement ensembles from them, to the discerning urbanite, in the vibrant city of Pune in western India. A store that has, besides other accolades, also found mention in USA’s leading natural fibre magazine Fiberarts, for the work it does.
Often, during these simplistic journeys, we have encountered formidable artists in the field of textiles, who have made it an humbling experience. Such wealth of knowledge, such simplicity, such dedication, such creativity, such mastery over skills, such apathy by Govt. authorities, all of it boggles the mind!

Recommended regions & routes for textile tours?

• Andhra Pradesh (weaves & kalamkari)


• Madhya Pradesh ( fine weaves, prints, batik)


• Kutch-Bhuj (aari work, stitchwork & embroidery)


• Gujarat & Rajasthan (high quality block printing, tie & dye)


• Chhatisgarh ( weaves in natural dyes only)


• Uttar Pradesh (chikankari chain stitch work)


• West Bengal (silk kantha chain stitch work)

…ofcourse there are many more that have a fountain of skillsmanship. Over the years, inter-state fusion of art too has been experimented successfully with.
To undertake one such journey, usually escorted, is a stunning experience. Recommended no. of days: 7-10. Stay arrangements: Modest.

Nature Unlimited - Mt. Everest !

Mt. Everest! Few other names evoke such respect & awe. Sagarmatha (forehead of the ocean) to Nepalese, Chomolungma to Tibetans, call it what you may, the name is taken with utmost respect, be it by mountaineers, trekkers, religious followers or a commoner.
The much famed Everest Base Camp trek, has been favourites amongst trekkers worldwide for the great views of the mighty peak it offers from Kalapatthar. However, personally i preferred to be on the Gokyo route for two reasons: 1. This route offers a lot more of the Everest region’s diverse grandeur with expansive views of the Greater Himalayan range, gorgeous lakes & vast meadows. 2. The route has lot less traffic of co-trekkers. Essentially the trail is the same till a few days beyond Namche Bazaar and then branches off to the two exclusive trek routes.
On the trail a few years ago, leading a team of co-trekkers, we had reached Gokyo base camp the previous eve to some great weather, with information that it was likely to worsen over the next 48 hrs. The views all along had been mesmerizing. Camaraderie & health was buoyant too.
“Views from campsite are fantastic, sir, but those from Gokyo Ri (Peak) are to be experienced in a lifetime”, said our guide Biren. 3.30am next morning we set off, head lamps & all, for a steep uphill of 2 hrs (we were to gain 2000ft in these two hours). Lungs protested, heart thumped wild & knees groaned. But the show was on, aspirations set and feeding of each other energies, we egged on.
Sunrise behind the Great Mountain was just occurring at 6am when we reached summit (18000ft). The peaks of Mt. Makalu, Mt. Lhotse & Mt. Cho Oyu (all above 26000ft) and many more were seemingly at eye level and appeared to be just a shout away. The mighty Ngouzumba Glacier beneath us completed this arresting panorama of infinity. Conniving well with deficient oxygen, it literally blew away our minds! Suddenly, what unfurled in front of us was this! A circular rainbow atop the tallest peak in the world! (click on pic for a fuller view). A rare spectacle of nature, reserved as it were, for the fortunate few. Himalayas beckon, say the smitten. True. So true.

From me to you:- A grand stand view of the Everest Range from atop Gokyo Ri! (18000 ft / 5480 mtrs.)
(Gokyo is a 15 day return difficult grade trek from Lukla where most group fly into from Kathmandu. Our group from Pune, was arguably, the first one to do it beginning from Jiri, an additional 5 days return. All comforts are offered by Moving Clouds with porters, guides, warm & friendly camps, tasty & nourishing food)